Fabian (HDR101) from Spain!

[fdsbl]

Hi guys!

I'm Fabian. I'm the owner of Photomatix Tutorial and HDR Photography | HDR101.com and of course I specialize in HDR photography and also really like portrait photography

I just wanted to say hi and introduced myself. Thanks for your time!

Fabian.

[Bambi]

Hi Fabian. Welcome.

[ericmark]

Hi and welcome. Interesting web site. I had not seen the screen shots of Photomatix before. However I can't really afford the software so with stick to Picturenaut and Photoshop although not the best good enough for what I do.

I was a little surprised at the 7 pictures I have always used 3 or 5 mainly as that is what one can set camera to auto bracket. And I have always set to +/- 2EV stops not one so either 4EV stops between lowest and highest or 8EV stops between lowest an highest.

Also I have always take images for HDR in RAW not Jpeg format and as you say saved in Tiff format but when opening in Photoshop I have always opened them in camera RAW to be able to selectively increase or decrease the exposure in areas before the final levels and Un-sharp mask in Photoshop main program.

I would be interested in your comments, and why you selected the methods you outline.

I consider there is a balance between too many images which increases the chance that something moves between them and too few and still having white out and dark areas in finished image. My camera in auto bracket will do as a maximum 2EV stops which is why I select 2EV however in RAW I would think one could get away with even 4EV stops and where movement has caused a problem where you are allowed to select on pre-view which images to use in the final HDR 32bit image I have de-selected the intermittent images in the past and used 4EV stops especial where a picture of a room looking through a doorway or window as there is very little at mid-range and the tone mapping will with S pattern remove most of the centre images information anyway.

I would love to here your comments. Maybe I have been missing something?

[Lovin]

You're very welcome here Fabian !

[fdsbl]

Hi and welcome. Interesting web site. I had not seen the screen shots of Photomatix before. However I can't really afford the software so with stick to Picturenaut and Photoshop although not the best good enough for what I do.

I was a little surprised at the 7 pictures I have always used 3 or 5 mainly as that is what one can set camera to auto bracket. And I have always set to +/- 2EV stops not one so either 4EV stops between lowest and highest or 8EV stops between lowest an highest.

Also I have always take images for HDR in RAW not Jpeg format and as you say saved in Tiff format but when opening in Photoshop I have always opened them in camera RAW to be able to selectively increase or decrease the exposure in areas before the final levels and Un-sharp mask in Photoshop main program.

I would be interested in your comments, and why you selected the methods you outline.

I consider there is a balance between too many images which increases the chance that something moves between them and too few and still having white out and dark areas in finished image. My camera in auto bracket will do as a maximum 2EV stops which is why I select 2EV however in RAW I would think one could get away with even 4EV stops and where movement has caused a problem where you are allowed to select on pre-view which images to use in the final HDR 32bit image I have de-selected the intermittent images in the past and used 4EV stops especial where a picture of a room looking through a doorway or window as there is very little at mid-range and the tone mapping will with S pattern remove most of the centre images information anyway.

I would love to here your comments. Maybe I have been missing something?

Actually I shoot RAW nowadays and convert to HDR from there. The reason I did 7 shots was because at that time I had a small Canon and I wanted the full dynamic range. With RAW is more than enough.

TIFF: I used to save them in TIFF because I was doing a lot of poster and such that needed big files and every time I saved in JPEG when I change the image size, I had artifacts all over the place. Today, I don't have that problem. Software like Genuine Fractals make resizing images a piece of cake.

Also, when you use Photomatix, you don't save the tone mapped image in RAW, that's why ou need to save it in either JPEG or TIFF to later edit it in Photoshop.

I hope this helps.

I need to update the site and the tutorials

I you are interested get on the list. I have some good monthly deals and coupons.

Cheers!

[JAS_Photo]

Hi fabian and welcome!

Eric, Photomatix light is much less expensive and since you already have other editing software, you can go from there. My camera will only automatically do one stop difference per shot so I usually do 5 or so to get the dynamic range but do not put them all in the program, at once. It just gives you that little extra to play with.