Entry-level DSLR shootout

[ret]

1. Canon XS
2. Canon XSi
3. Nikon D40
4. Nikon D60
5. Olympus E420
6. Olympus E520
7. Pentax KD200
8. Sony A200
9. Sony A300
10. Sony A350

which one would you go for?

[PaulaLynn]

I notice mine (Xti) isn't listed, so I will have to vote for the Xsi...

[tegan]

1. Canon XS
2. Canon XSi
3. Nikon D40
4. Nikon D60
5. Olympus E420
6. Olympus E520
7. Pentax KD200
8. Sony A200
9. Sony A300
10. Sony A350

which one would you go for?

As I remember the lab tests, the Sony A350 was faster than all of the above in metering and autofocus. Its dynamic range optimizer also worked better than the dynamic range systems on the other cameras too. The live view is faster and switch based rather than menu based like the other cameras.
The live view combined with the tiltable screen makes it extremely useful for street shooting, holding the camera above the crowd, or low level shooting.
The LCD also displays a live histogram in preview.

Tegan

[ret]

The live view is faster and switch based rather than menu based like the other cameras. The live view combined with the tiltable screen makes it extremely useful for street shooting, holding the camera above the crowd, or low level shooting. The LCD also displays a live histogram in preview.

Tegan

I like the tilt feature on the Sony's DSLRs .... But some of the other features that you described are on the Olympus too, iirc

[tegan]

I like the tilt feature on the Sony's DSLRs .... But some of the other features that you described are on the Olympus too, iirc

However important to DSLR owners, autofocus and tracking are more effective on the Sony camera. On the Olympus the shutter needs to be partially depressed in order for autofocus to start working. On the Sony, it starts working as soon as you start raising the camera to your eye. The Sony and the other cameras also according to reviews work much better than the Olympus in low light. Having shot in the pitch dark of a coal mine I can certaily verify that other cameras work well in low light.

As to live view, I would check out how the live view works on the Olympus.
There are different variations of live view and according to Popular Photography, the Sony A350 has the best one.

Tegan

[ret]

However important to DSLR owners, autofocus and tracking are more effective on the Sony camera. On the Olympus the shutter needs to be partially depressed in order for autofocus to start working. On the Sony, it starts working as soon as you start raising the camera to your eye. The Sony and the other cameras also according to reviews work much better than the Olympus in low light. Having shot in the pitch dark of a coal mine I can certaily verify that other cameras work well in low light.

Tegan

I haven't had problems with shooting at night with the Olympus but ofc I haven't tried out others to be able to compare. May be Olympus performance in dark could be hindered by its comparatively smaller four-thirds sensor

So which camera[s] did you use to shoot in the coal mine?

[Travis]

If you are planning on becoming more serious in photography you should not get entrapped into features of entry level DSLR's. When you start buying cameras and lenses you are buying into a system. As such, it should be the system you are judging and making you decisions on.

How serious is company you are choosing?

How long have they committed to making advanced photography products?

What is the lens selection like?

What is the availability of used lenses like in the market? And will those used lenses mount and be functional with new bodies?

What is resale value of the lenses you want to get rid of? Is there a market for them?

How will third party software companies(ie photoshop) prioritize the RAW development software algorithms for the system you choose?

How will third party lens manufacturers (ie sigma) prioritize lens releases for the system you choose?

If you use internet forums to advance your knowledge of the system choosen, are there healthy active robust forums dedicated to it?

What are the warranties offered? What is the general turn around time of warranty or non warranty repair? What is the reputation for warranty work?

What are tho pro's using? Why do you think they are using whatever they have chosen?

and others questions that I'm sure I've missing...


ALL DSLR camera bodies can make great images in the hands of a some one who knows what he/she is doing. No gizmo feature of today's camera makes images any more stunning than images made 20 years ago. Half of DSLR advancements are purely marketing hype the other half are helpful to making good images but not necessary. If you are semi serious in photography as a hobby or profession, you will most likely end up buying at least another 12 bodies over your lifetime SO LOOK AT tHE SYSTEM YoU ARE BUYING INTO. Once you start buying multiple lenses, flashes, teleconverters, remotes, cables, filters, and other accessories it becomes harder and harder to get out of the system you have chosen.

[tegan]

Contrary to Travis, I don't commit myself to any system. All cameras have their strong points. Some of their weak points can be worked around, but others not so. I see no advantage in a system. Lens change and better ones come out at even the same focal length for the same camera. Moreover if you are constantly changing lenses during a shoot, then you are probably missing more shots than you are getting. It is also advantageous to take a small cheaper camera into some situations such as night shooting in an unfamiliar city, rock climbing, or shooting from skis.

I go for camera design, features, and ease of use because along with quality lenses that is what gets the shot, not the system.

Tegan

[Travis]

Well... most prosumers and pro's end up with a combination like this..

-A main body
-Wide landscape lens in the 12-24mm area
-Macro portraiture prime in the 100mm area
-A nifty 50 and 85mm prime
-a mid range zoom in the 20 - 70 range
-a tele zoom in the 70 - 200 range
-if into wildlife a 300 or 400mm prime, or 300 to 500mm zoom
-teleconverters
-a back up body (usually a lighter or older body)
-a hot shoe flash
-if your camera supports multiple flash triggering add 2 to 3 more flash units

This is a system... the bodies come and go and the rest of the lenses/gear work around the new bodies you buy. If a newer lens comes out then we are back to my original points. Is there demand for your old lens? Is there good resale value in your old lens? Can you get rid of it quickly to free up money for your new lens?

[ret]

Today, I checked the Sony A300 and the Pentax D20

Only positive, I found with the Sony was its tiltable screen .... The buttons were badly laid out. The live view switch is on the top panel of camera which I didn't like. The view through the viewfinder was not that inviting. the kit was priced at $649

The Pentax D20 on the other hand felt sturdy. Mostly things were well-laid out. At $1200 for the kit, it looked like a good buy for those who want a sturdy camera

Didn't get a chance to check the image quality and the menu in detail as I just browsed through them so the above is based on my initial impression