Backgrounds Matter Dammit

One of the things that sep­a­rates new­bie pho­tog­ra­phers from expe­ri­enced pho­tog­ra­phers is the abil­ity to see beyond the fore­ground or main sub­ject. Most pho­tog­ra­phers that are start­ing out for­get that 2 dimen­sional pho­tos had mul­ti­ple planes (fore­ground, midground and back­ground) before the shut­ter release but­ton was clicked. This is espe­cially true of street photography.

Image by thoughton

Thoughton, a mem­ber of our fine art pho­tog­ra­phy forum recently uploaded a gor­geous set of travel pho­tos where the back­grounds share equal or greater impor­tance to the fore­ground or the main focal point. In some of the images the back­ground IS the focal point.

Part of the skill here is of course antic­i­pa­tion, desire and patience. Some­times we can spot a great street back­ground but we need to hunt down (sounds bet­ter and less bor­ing than ‘wait for’) a fore­ground sub­ject to com­plete the scene.

Image by thoughton

Click to see the photo thread that con­tains thoughton’s whole set in a larger size.

Happy hunt­ing :)

Gaia Nudes — Workshop w/ Darwin Wiggett & Samantha Chrysanthou

Good friend to Photography.ca Dar­win Wiggett is offer­ing a work­shop (about 1/2 hour west of Cal­gary, Alberta) on August 12–14, 2011  on how to shoot land­scape nude pho­tog­ra­phy, called Gaia Nudes. Dar­win is a fab­u­lous pho­tog­ra­pher and teacher so it’s my plea­sure to help spread the word. Read on if you are inter­ested in learn­ing how to shoot nudes with Dar­win and Saman­tha. As always, Dar­win only works with small groups so spots fill up fast.

Q: What is Gaia Nudes?

A: Gaia Nudes is the name of our project for pho­tograph­ing artis­tic nudes in the land­scape.  As land­scape shoot­ers, we have an appre­ci­a­tion for nat­ural beauty.  Meld­ing the human form into the land­scape seemed a fun and chal­leng­ing way to merge our appre­ci­a­tion of the land­scape with recog­ni­tion of the beauty inher­ent in the nat­ural human form.  The results of our work are show­cased on our web­site, www.gaianudes.com.

Q: As you say, you are pri­mar­ily nature and land­scape shoot­ers; how did you come to develop this web­site and con­cept behind Gaia Nudes?

A: Well, there are many, many won­der­ful land­scape scen­ics out there online, in mag­a­zines and in other forms of pub­li­ca­tions.  There are also a lot of pic­tures of nude or naked peo­ple online:  just try search­ing for qual­ity, fine art nude pho­tog­ra­phy and you are inun­dated with what is often just soft porn!  We real­ized that there are much fewer exam­ples of images that com­bine a well-composed land­scape with an artis­tic inter­pre­ta­tion of the human form.  We thought this would be a chal­leng­ing yet reward­ing way to broaden our skills as photographers.

Q: How is Gaia Nudes dif­fer­ent from say, boudoir or glam­our nude photography?

It really boils down to one key word:  sex.  Fine art nude pho­tog­ra­phy is not there to sell a sex­ual idea.  Sure, there is inti­macy and sen­su­al­ity in fine art nude land­scape images, but we are appeal­ing to these sen­si­bil­i­ties more than we are appeal­ing to people’s inter­est in sex.  Boudoir pho­tog­ra­phy is as its name implies:  shot in a pri­vate, inti­mate set­ting with props such as sexy cloth­ing, mood light­ing, makeup and provoca­tive pos­tures.  The empha­sis is on the phys­i­cal desir­abil­ity of the per­son being pho­tographed rather than on a gen­eral aes­thetic appre­ci­a­tion of the fig­ure.  Glam­our nudes sell sex pack­aged up with fash­ion.  Both are respectable forms of expres­sion, but they are not what Gaia Nudes is about.  A Gaia Nudes shoot may show the fragility of the body when exposed to the ele­ments, it may be a story in the con­trast in tex­tures, or it may high­light the par­al­lel forms of the human body and its echo in the line of a tree, hill­side or jagged rock.

When we are out pho­tograph­ing with our mod­els, we are all hav­ing fun.  We laugh at our mis­takes, spin cre­ative ideas off each other, and exper­i­ment with poses that con­nect the body to the land­scape.  It’s a phys­i­cal and men­tal workout!

Q: Why would other pho­tog­ra­phers be inter­ested in this area of photography?

We have heard many times from our work­shop par­tic­i­pants that they are ‘in a rut’ or bored with their pho­tog­ra­phy.  For shoot­ers look­ing for a chal­lenge, pho­tograph­ing nudes out­doors brings into play many skills and chal­lenges, forc­ing pho­tog­ra­phers who think of them­selves as ‘peo­ple’ shoot­ers or ‘nature’ shoot­ers to think out­side of the box.  If you enjoy pho­tograph­ing beauty in any form, then you would be inter­ested in this kind of photography!

As well, because we have avoided the need to ‘sell sex’, the pho­tog­ra­pher has a much wider range of emo­tion and story to work with.  By free­ing the shooter and the model from the boudoir or bed­room, we’ve freed them to work together to chan­nel orig­i­nal and unique expres­sions or stories.

Q: What do you look for in a land­scape for a Gaia Nudes model shoot?

Good ques­tion!  We look for a land­scape that has a bit of mobil­ity in terms of it can sup­port more than one pose or idea.  Ide­ally, a land­scape that has sev­eral fea­tures of inter­est, such as some open land, rolling hills, some for­est, per­haps some rocky ter­rain….  Prac­ti­cally speak­ing, we need land fea­tures that are capa­ble of sup­port­ing safely both pho­tog­ra­pher and model (so no swamps, wil­low thick­ets or scree slopes!).  Pri­vacy is also crit­i­cal so both model and pho­tog­ra­pher can con­cen­trate.  The land­scape should also be some­thing that we would pho­to­graph for its own sake.  Too often when a pho­tog­ra­pher takes a model out­doors for nude work, the land­scape gets short shift and is rel­e­gated to a few sticks or a rocky water­fall.  We want both nature and the model to be appre­ci­ated since their sto­ries are interwoven.

Q: What do you look for in models?

There are a few char­ac­ter­is­tics that are crit­i­cal.  The most impor­tant is atti­tude.  We are seek­ing a fun and reward­ing expe­ri­ence for both model and pho­tog­ra­pher, so a per­son with a pos­i­tive atti­tude and a will­ing­ness to get a bit dirty or work a lit­tle harder for the shot are crit­i­cal.  In terms of phys­i­cal char­ac­ter­is­tics, we look for a slim, fit and healthy body that looks nat­ural.  The cam­era appre­ci­ates mod­els who can elon­gate their limbs and carry an ele­gant line from head to toe.  We love yogis, dancers, and gym­nasts for this form of work.  The model should have a good kines­thetic aware­ness and an abil­ity to under­stand a direc­tion from the pho­tog­ra­pher so that he or she can trans­late a ver­bal sug­ges­tion into a pose.  This is def­i­nitely a tal­ent!  We avoid mod­els that are too mus­cu­lar, too endowed (remem­ber, we’re not sell­ing sex!) or dis­pro­por­tional.  We don’t have height require­ments, we aren’t gender-biased, and we don’t really care about the model’s facial beauty since we’re not sell­ing glam­our, fash­ion or boudoir.

Q: Describe a typ­i­cal shoot.

This is one area where we are land­scape shoot­ers, through and through!  We start early (just after sun­rise is best) and work in the lovely early morn­ing light for a cou­ple of hours.  We usu­ally break for mid­day both for health (heat­stroke, any­one?) and then resume in the long, golden light of the evening.  Each ses­sion is usu­ally about three hours long.  Both of us work one model and encour­age sug­ges­tions or ideas from the model as well as each other.  We rarely use sup­ple­men­tal light, but some­times we share hold­ing a reflec­tor to brighten parts of the model’s body.

Q: What are some of the chal­lenges and rewards of this form of photography?

The chal­lenges of this form of pho­tog­ra­phy is that it is like an ‘all over’ work­out:  so many skills are at play!  Men­tally, you need cre­ative vision to pic­ture a con­cept.  You need good com­mu­ni­ca­tion skills to trans­late this vision to the model so that he or she can pic­ture what you have in mind and exe­cute your sug­ges­tions.  You also need to be flex­i­ble to respond to chang­ing poses, other’s ideas and vari­able weather and light con­di­tions.  There is a bit of phys­i­cal exer­cise too.  Fine art out­door nude pho­tog­ra­phy com­bines skills from the tra­di­tions of both por­trai­ture and land­scape pho­tog­ra­phy.  The rewards are increased skill lev­els, com­pelling imagery and that sat­is­fac­tion you feel when you work together as a team with your model to cre­ate an amaz­ing image.

Q: Can you pro­vide any tips for com­pos­ing the scene?

You have to work within an idea.  Just plunk­ing a per­son into a scene is going to look arti­fi­cial.  Try and think of the model as another fea­ture of the envi­ron­ment.  Where would this fea­ture look best in the over­all scene?  Look for shapes or ele­ments in the scene that might mir­ror the shape and form of the human body, or con­trast with the human form.  If you are really stuck, try hav­ing your model make dif­fer­ent forms (rounded or long, arms and limbs out or close to the body) next to another dis­tinc­tive ele­ment in the scene.  For exam­ple, a round rock in a prairie scene might sug­gest a curved form on or around the rock, or you could angle for con­trast and have your model in a sit­ting tri­an­gu­lar pose to con­trast with the rounded form of the rock.

Lens choice and point of view are also impor­tant when com­pos­ing the scene.  Since this is about the land­scape and the model, we often use wider angle lenses and shoot fur­ther back than tra­di­tional boudoir or fash­ion photography.

Q: Where do you look for inspi­ra­tion on how to pose mod­els within the scene?  Is com­mu­ni­ca­tion of your vision easy or difficult?

A lot of our inspi­ra­tion comes from the land­scape itself.  There are always inter­est­ing shapes, tex­tures and lines in nature that you can work with.  We encour­age our mod­els to come up with ideas as well since they know what their bod­ies are capa­ble of doing in terms of reach, bal­ance etc.  Com­mu­ni­ca­tion depends each time on the rela­tion­ship between the pho­tog­ra­pher and the model.  We try to be very clear and descrip­tive with our lan­guage to trans­late our vision in what we want the model to do.  So, instead of say­ing, “Can you just move that arm a bit more over there?” which is a ter­ri­bly unin­for­ma­tive way of putting it, we would be more spe­cific:  “Can you lift your right arm about 90 degrees out from your side and bend your elbow so that your right hand rests behind your right ear?”

We have also wan­dered across some excep­tional fine art nudes in the land­scape and those are also always an inspiration.

Q: What equip­ment do you use in the field?

We mostly use nat­ural light as it is very beau­ti­ful and flat­ter­ing to both land­scape and model if you shoot in bright over­cast light or when the sun is lower in the sky.  We may use a reflec­tor for some fill, and on some occa­sions we break out off-camera flash with a soft box for other effects.

Q: You are also both photo instruc­tors with eBooks and work­shops on offer.  I under­stand you have an upcom­ing work­shop on this form of fine art pho­tog­ra­phy.  Can you describe that for any view­ers who may be inter­ested to learn more?

We greatly enjoy teach­ing, so we do have some eBooks on generic pho­tog­ra­phy top­ics, along with our busi­ness part­ners Jay and Varina Patel, at www.visualwilderness.com But our Gaia Nudes work is pri­mar­ily on our Gaia Nudes web­site.  We are offer­ing a work­shop this sum­mer, in Alberta near where we live, on how to cre­ate this form of artis­tic pho­tog­ra­phy.  The work­shop takes place August 12–14, 2011 on gor­geous, pri­vate ranch­land in the foothills.  We have sev­eral mod­els and a very lim­ited num­ber of par­tic­i­pant spots.  We’ll be cov­er­ing how to com­mu­ni­cate your cre­ative vision, com­po­si­tional tips and tech­niques and essen­tial equip­ment, and we have a Ladies Only day spe­cially set aside for female shoot­ers who appre­ci­ate com­raderie and com­pany in learn­ing new forms of photography.

Dar­win Wiggett and Saman­tha Chrysan­thou are both cre­ative and life part­ners.  They spe­cial­ize in high-quality, acces­si­ble instruc­tion on pho­to­graphic top­ics.  Their work has been pub­lished in both national and inter­na­tional mag­a­zines and pub­li­ca­tions; Dar­win is a reg­u­lar colum­nist for Out­door Pho­tog­ra­phy Canada mag­a­zine.  You can read more about them by vis­it­ing their web­sites (www.darwinwiggett.com , www.chrysalizz.smugmug.com) or their blogs (www.darwinwiggett.wordpress.com , www.samsrant.wordpress.com)

Short Photography Excursions by Ron Cardinale

For a lot of us, one big way we work on our pho­tog­ra­phy skills is by mak­ing short excur­sions that may be only a few hours long or even less. These brief sojourns can help us refine our craft. There’s a famous say­ing that luck favors the pre­pared. I’ve got some favorite loca­tions, which have changed over the years. Being famil­iar with them at var­i­ous times of the day, var­i­ous times of the year, and with dif­fer­ent weather con­di­tions is really help­ful. Some­times, these prac­tice shots have had a drama that wasn’t in my mind when I left the house. This pic­ture resulted from both pre­pared­ness and luck. (The loca­tion is in Fos­ter City which isn’t too far south of San Francisco.)

Image by Ron Cardinale

Image by Ron Cardinale

I’ve walked the shore of this lagoon many times. On this morn­ing, a storm was approach­ing from the Pacific. I had an idea of what to expect so I had my wide angle zoom with me and used it at 12mm for this shot. The luck part of it was being there at the right time to catch these dra­matic clouds with unusu­ally still water. I’d taken a few other shots around the lagoon that morn­ing but I like this one the best because the clouds and their reflec­tion appear to con­verge directly across the lagoon. Despite the calm con­di­tions on the ground, the clouds were mov­ing along so I didn’t have a lot of time. The con­verg­ing pat­tern was van­ish­ing and I could see that the clouds that were mov­ing in weren’t as dra­matic as these.

One issue with such a wide angle lens when shoot­ing a scene with bright clouds is that the lens sees a lot of those clouds so the camera’s meter very often reduces the expo­sure and the shot ends-up too dark. In pre­vi­ous shots, I had increased the expo­sure but that caused the loss of too much high­light detail in the clouds. The clouds are a key part of the image so it was impor­tant to hold detail in them. For this shot, I used the camera’s nor­mal meter­ing. The expo­sure was 1/500 at f/8 with ISO 100.  The result­ing image was dark but it held details in the clouds except right were the sun was.

I made some adjust­ments later at the com­puter. I made a quasi HDR photo from dif­fer­ent pro­cess­ings of the sin­gle raw image and also made a curves adjust­ment. A real HDR image sequence wasn’t fea­si­ble in this sit­u­a­tion because the clouds were mov­ing and the water wasn’t com­pletely still.   Have fun and keep shoot­ing!
Read a lit­tle more from Ron Car­di­nale at http://roncardinale.110mb.com

Photography forum image of the month May 2011

Every month on our pho­tog­ra­phy forum mem­bers nom­i­nate images that they like. Then at the end of the month I choose an excel­lent image and talk about why it rocks. The photo I choose is not nec­es­sar­ily the best one of the month. I’ve come to real­ize it’s not really log­i­cal to pit images from totally dif­fer­ent gen­res against each other. That’s why there are cat­e­gories in photo con­tests. I just choose a photo that has extremely strong ele­ments that we can learn from.

Lake Wall by taffy

Lake Wall by taffy

This month’s choice is Lake Wall by taffty.

I chose this image for sev­eral reasons:

Mood — The over­all mood here (which I inter­pret as as “ethe­real”) is cre­ated by many fac­tors includ­ing; the soft light, the com­po­si­tion and of course the black and white post pro­cess­ing. The whitish clouds reflect­ing in the water as well as what looks to be a really gen­tle surf also give you the feeling/illusion that the wall is float­ing on air.

Com­po­si­tion — The lines, curves, shapes, sub-shapes cre­ated by the lines and curves, and the use of neg­a­tive space are all well used here. They please our eyes and intrigue our eyes. The curved wall-path that starts with medium/light tones in the fore­ground to darker at left midground leads our eye beau­ti­fully as it ‘cuts’ through the lighter tones on the left..

Expo­sure and post pro­cess­ing — Both well han­dled here. Even though the light is soft, reflec­tions off the water make for a trick­ier expo­sure. Whites hold their sub­tle detail on my mon­i­tor and I like that. Sil­very mid­tones in the sky (back­ground) and imme­di­ate fore­ground match each other for won­der­ful effect.

For all these rea­sons, this is my choice for image of the month. Since we all have opin­ions, some mem­bers may dis­agree with my choice. That’s cool but THIS thread is not the place for debate over my pick, NOR is it the place to fur­ther cri­tique the image. The pur­pose here is to sug­gest strong ele­ments in the photo that we may learn from.

Con­grats again taffy for see­ing and and cre­at­ing this won­der­ful photo!

Fraser Island Australia by Mad Aussie

For the past cou­ple of years, a few times a year, Mod­er­a­tor Mad Aussie (Astro­vi­sual on Flickr) on our pho­tog­ra­phy forum posts won­der­ful pho­tographs of his trav­els though Aus­tralia. Recently Mad Aussie vis­ited Fraser Island, Aus­tralia and posted quite a lovely vari­ety of images. I really like the way these fab  images and text are pre­sented so I thought I’d share them with you and say thanks to Mad Aussie for shar­ing them with us. http://www.photography.ca/Forums/f11/come-me-day-fraser-island-14793.html

The Maheno Shipwreck by Mad Aussie (Astrovisual)

The Maheno Ship­wreck by Mad Aussie (Astrovisual)

Photography forum image of the month April 2011

Every month on our pho­tog­ra­phy forum mem­bers nom­i­nate images that they like. Then at the end of the month I choose an excel­lent image and talk about why it rocks. The photo I choose is not nec­es­sar­ily the best one of the month. I’ve come to real­ize it’s not really log­i­cal to pit images from totally dif­fer­ent gen­res against each other. That’s why there are cat­e­gories in photo con­tests. I just choose a photo that has extremely strong ele­ments that we can learn from.

Repetition in Monochrome by Casil403

Rep­e­ti­tion in Mono­chrome by Casil403

This month’s choice is Rep­e­ti­tion in Mono­chrome by casil403.

I chose this image for sev­eral reasons:

Spot­ting the scene — Abstracts like this are often all around us, and the vast major­ity of us will never ever see them. Look­ing is not the same as see­ing. See­ing takes longer, it takes more time and more patience. Hats off to Casil for see­ing this fab­u­lous abstract.

Com­po­si­tion — Even though we are not sure what we are look­ing at, this abstract scene is very well com­posed and very delib­er­ate. Both the curved lines and the straight lines in this image intrigue and suc­cess­fully guide our eye through the image. The repet­i­tive qual­ity of the curves and lines is also very pleas­ing. In case peo­ple are won­der­ing what the abstract actu­ally is, Casil wrote …“it’s the reflec­tion of a sof­fit ceil­ing on a mir­rored pole.”

Post pro­cess­ing — Black and white was an excel­lent choice for this scene. The lack of colour empha­sizes the graphic qual­ity of the lines and pat­terns that we see. The tonal qual­ity of the scene (good rep­re­sen­ta­tion of tones) as well as the frame around the scene suits this image extremely well.

For all these rea­sons, this is my choice for image of the month. Since we all have opin­ions, some mem­bers may dis­agree with my choice. That’s cool but THIS thread is not the place for debate over my pick, NOR is it the place to fur­ther cri­tique the image. The pur­pose here is to sug­gest strong ele­ments in the photo that we may learn from.

Con­grats again Casil for see­ing, cap­tur­ing and pro­cess­ing this won­der­ful find!

Bokeh baby! by Kristen Smith

Aside from the razor-sharp sub­ject, one of the most impor­tant ele­ments of any close-up or macro pic­ture is bokeh. It is a funny con­cept that has many inter­pre­ta­tions and is def­i­nitely one of the more sub­jec­tive ele­ments of pho­tog­ra­phy. I’m not going to debate those, but I want to talk a lit­tle bit about how the delib­er­ate use of bokeh can help strengthen your images. Before I get going though, def­i­nitely lis­ten to this mini-podcast from Mar­tin Bai­ley on how to pro­nounce bokeh and its ety­mo­log­i­cal his­tory and cul­tural meaning.

In its sim­plest pho­to­graphic def­i­n­i­tion bokeh refers to the out of focus areas of a pic­ture. Mostly the mean­ing is applied to pho­tographs where there is a spe­cific sub­ject in the imme­di­ate fore­ground. Not always a close up or macro, but not really a land­scape either where some of the photo might not be in crisp focus. Bokeh is a prod­uct of shal­low depth of field which is achieved by a wide aper­ture rel­a­tive to the length of the lens.

One of the most dra­matic uses of bokeh is to sep­a­rate your sub­ject from the back­ground. Espe­cially if the back­ground is very busy. Ren­der­ing it smoothly out of focus makes things really pop –

Joyeuse by Kristen Smith

Joyeuse by Kris­ten Smith

One of my favorite bokeh tech­niques is to echo the main sub­ject exactly. Your imag­i­na­tion can eas­ily fill in the miss­ing detail because it resem­bles the sharp sub­ject so much. The echo rein­forces the main idea, but also gives your brain some­thing to play with. The trick is to uti­lize an aper­ture that will simul­ta­ne­ously allow you to rec­og­nize the out of focus object and leave it fuzzy. I love this technique –

Vinca by Kristen Smith

Vinca by Kris­ten Smith

I also love how bokeh can cre­ate atmos­phere in a photo – mostly a gauzy, dreamy effect. It doesn’t work in all cir­cum­stances, but if you are work­ing in the right light it is beau­ti­ful. With this kind of image, the sub­ject most often is the bokeh itself with the sharply focused parts play­ing sup­port­ing roles only.

Birch by Kristen Smith

Birch by Kris­ten Smith

The dig­i­tal age is a real help when exper­i­ment­ing with bokeh because you can see your shot imme­di­ately and use live view and depth of field pre­view to fine-tune each one. Get to know your lens by shoot­ing objects at dif­fer­ent aper­tures and focal lengths then study­ing the effect. Think about what kind of photo you want to make and how bokeh can empha­size your photo’s intent.

Got any good bokeh shots? Feel free to add them in com­ments or join the Photography.ca forum and start a thread.

For more of Kristen’s out­door pho­tog­ra­phy and other arti­cles visit wickeddarkphotography.com

Photography forum image of the month March 2011

Every month on our pho­tog­ra­phy forum mem­bers nom­i­nate images that they like. Then at the end of the month I choose an excel­lent image and talk about why it rocks. The photo I choose is not nec­es­sar­ily the best one of the month. I’ve come to real­ize it’s not really log­i­cal to pit images from totally dif­fer­ent gen­res against each other. That’s why there are cat­e­gories in photo con­tests. I just choose a photo that has extremely strong ele­ments that we can learn from.

Urban Eagle by Michaelaw

Urban Eagle by Michaelaw

This month’s choice is Urban Eagle by Michaelaw.

I chose this image for sev­eral reasons:

Story and com­po­si­tion — The title Urban Eagle tells it all and the awe­some back­ground imagery of a bridge and cranes make the story more com­pelling. Themes and sub­themes abound in shots like this and I really enjoy that. The eagle is well posi­tioned in this shot that had to be com­posed super-quickly. The back­ground ele­ments (bridge struc­ture and cranes) are also very well placed in the shot.

Degree of dif­fi­culty — timing/decisive moment — This is no easy shot to get. The tim­ing, (just look at the lovely frozen open-wings) the focus, and com­po­si­tion have to be very well synced and Michaelaw did an excel­lent job.

Sharp­ness — The bird’s feath­ers are really sharp and the eye looks quite sharp along with some lovely back­ground bokeh.

Colour and post pro­cess­ing — Both are well con­trolled to cre­ate this very strik­ing image with a lovely ‘cool’ colour palette that totally suits the image. If it were my shot I may have burned in the rear white wings a bit and dodged the face a wee bit but that’s it.

For all these rea­sons, this is my choice for image of the month. Since we all have opin­ions, some mem­bers may dis­agree with my choice. That’s cool but THIS thread is not the place for debate over my pick, NOR is it the place to fur­ther cri­tique the image. The pur­pose here is to sug­gest strong ele­ments in the photo that we may learn from.

Con­grats again Michaelaw for cap­tur­ing this won­der­ful scene!

Photo Editing On The Cheap by Glenn Euloth

I love pho­tog­ra­phy and as much as I try to get the image right in cam­era when I press the shut­ter release there are just some times when you need adjust some over­ex­posed bits or pos­si­bly do some cus­tom edit­ing to cre­ate a minia­ture look or selec­tive colour­ing. What­ever the rea­son might be there will be times when you need to edit your images. A full out copy of Pho­to­shop is more than $500. Even Pho­to­shop Ele­ments clocks in at $100 or so which is not super expen­sive but still, if I have an extra $100 I’m putting it towards a new lens or maybe that new tri­pod that I need.

In my last blog for Photography.ca I wrote about Picasa. Picasa does a won­der­ful job of basic photo edit­ing, how­ever, it just doesn’t cut it for any­thing really detailed. When I need more detailed edit­ing capa­bil­i­ties I use Gimp. Gimp is a won­der­ful piece of soft­ware avail­able for free use for Win­dows and Mac users as well as the orig­i­nal Unix plat­form. A com­pan­ion prod­uct called ufRAW, also free, allows Gimp to open and edit RAW image files and since I shoot almost exclu­sively in RAW for­mat it was a nec­es­sary add-on.

Gimp will do a lot more than I am capa­ble of doing and I have still used it to do some amaz­ing things. Like Pho­to­shop it allows you to edit images using mul­ti­ple lay­ers, has many dif­fer­ent fil­ters and scripts that can change the look of your images (or parts of it) and also pro­vides many dif­fer­ent tools to work on your images. In this blog post I’ll edit an image and pro­vide some screen shots to give you an idea of the capa­bil­i­ties of this won­der­ful piece of soft­ware, how­ever, to really learn how to use it visit the tuto­ri­als page on the Gimp site.

In order to give you the broad­est tour pos­si­ble I will take an orig­i­nal image where I’ve done a fair bit of work on the image and walk you through the edit­ing steps that I took to get it the way I wanted. Some of you out there may be much bet­ter at photo edit­ing and so you will undoubt­edly see areas where I am doing some­thing wrong. Please feel free to com­ment below so I can learn more about how to do this stuff properly.

Let’s start with this pho­to­graph of a but­ter­fly. Here’s the JPEG ver­sion cre­ated by export­ing from Picasa with default set­tings. All things con­sid­ered it’s not a hor­ri­ble shot of the but­ter­fly but the com­po­si­tion is kind of blah and the butterfly’s cam­ou­flage makes it dif­fi­cult to see. Let’s open it in Gimp to see what we can do with this bor­ing image.

Butterfly on Tree

First up, since it’s a RAW and I have ufRAW installed it auto­mat­i­cally opens in ufRAW for me.  Here I can make adjust­ments to the RAW image before jump­ing into the Gimp edi­tor proper.  For this image I’m going to make a few adjust­ments here so I end up in Gimp with the basics already com­pleted.  This is the gen­eral process for me.

  1. From Picasa I right click and select Open in Gimp.
  2. It auto­mat­i­cally opens in ufRAW because it’s a RAW image.
  3. I’ve clipped a few high­lights 0.1% and so I adjust the black lev­els a touch to elim­i­nate those.
  4. I then adjust the curves to boost the over­all expo­sure to where I like the image.
  5. Using the crop/rotate/size adjust tab I select a pleas­ing crop which puts the but­ter­fly on an inter­sec­tion of thirds and gives him space to “fly into”.  Note the grid lines allow me to do this easily.
  6. Click­ing OK trans­fers the image into Gimp for fur­ther edit­ing where I adjust the colour lev­els and pump up the sat­u­ra­tion on this one to give that but­ter­fly a lit­tle more life.
  7. Next, I’m going to do some selec­tive colour­ing to really make him stand out.  So, I’ll dupli­cate the layer so I now have two butterflies.
  8. Change the top layer to B&W and cre­ate a layer mask that I paint through to expose the butterfly.
  9. I switched to the colour layer and added a touch of unsharp mask to sharpen up the image.
  10. Last, to fin­ish it off, I add a cou­ple of bor­ders, first white, then black and save as a JPEG.


6a 

6b  6c 

8a 

8b  8c 

9a  9b 

10a  10b

That’s it!  Here’s the result:

Butterfly Edited

Liv­ing in Hal­i­fax, Nova Sco­tia, Glenn Euloth enjoys trav­el­ling on the pho­to­graphic jour­ney.  Visit www.euloth.com to join him on the trip or find him on our pho­tog­ra­phy forum under the nick­name of Iguanasan.

Vintage photo of the day March 17, 2011

Today’s image of the day is called Stairs of Mont­martre, Paris by the late mas­ter Hun­gar­ian pho­tog­ra­pher Andre Kertesz, and it was shot in 1925. Kertesz is one of my all time favorite pho­tog­ra­phers and more of his work will surely be fea­tured in the future.

Stairs of Montmartre, Paris - 1925 by Andre Kertesz

Stairs of Mont­martre, Paris — 1925 by Andre Kertesz

What makes this, and tons of other Kertesz images fan­tas­tic is the pre­cise and delib­er­ate com­po­si­tion. Kertesz was sim­ply a mas­ter at guid­ing your eye to inter­est­ing places in the pho­to­graph. The shapes of the shad­ows and the posi­tion of the rail­ings are both delight­ful to look at and they guide your eye per­fectly toward the humans in the photo.

Kertesz was also keenly aware of all planes of focus in an image and how they work together. The con­nec­tion between the fore­ground, midground and the back­ground ele­ments of this image helps to sug­gest a story as well as make the image graph­i­cally striking.

Graven Images – Ideas for Cemetery Photography by Kristen Smith

Strange as it may seem to some, I find ceme­ter­ies peace­ful places and I enjoy spend­ing time in them.  I also enjoy pho­tograph­ing them.  I’m mostly fas­ci­nated by the over­all aes­thetic of a ceme­tery, how the stones are placed, the ways they’ve shifted and changed over time, the carv­ings and motifs through the decades, dec­o­ra­tive arrange­ments like walls and gates; it all fas­ci­nates me and I do my best to cap­ture the essence of a grave­yard when­ever I shoot one.

Haunting the Obscure by Kristen Smith

Haunt­ing the Obscure by Kris­ten Smith

There are some gen­eral guide­lines you should fol­low when shoot­ing bur­ial grounds.  The first thing to remem­ber is to be respect­ful.  These places rep­re­sent lives and his­tory and often sor­row.  If there are mourn­ers or vis­i­tors present, give them space.  Don’t crash a ceremony.

Also don’t touch or move any­thing with respect to the graves them­selves.  If one is dam­aged or fallen over, leave it.  Some­times branches or other debris fall on mon­u­ments and I always leave those as well, unless it is pho­to­graph­i­cally in the way.  I also avoid climb­ing over any­thing I don’t have to like walls or gates. And I never remove any­thing from a gravesite and I can’t imag­ine doing so.

Angle of Repose by Kristen Smith

Angle of Repose by Kris­ten Smith

My main inter­est is in old ceme­ter­ies.  Luck­ily in New Eng­land we have the old­est Euro­pean ceme­ter­ies in the coun­try and I’m never short of sub­jects.  What­ever your par­tic­u­lar inter­est is, find ways to accen­tu­ate what you find inter­est­ing.  It might be par­tic­u­larly mov­ing epi­taphs, or art­work and com­mon dec­o­ra­tive motifs or maybe just find­ing stones of peo­ple with your name.  Per­son­ally I like to show the over­all struc­ture and char­ac­ter of a ceme­tery as well as high­light some of the old­est or most inter­est­ing head­stones.  Decay­ing stones are always ter­rific sub­jects; lichen, cracks, weath­er­ing and even out­right destruc­tion can make for really inter­est­ing images.

Harriet Obscured by Kristen Smith

Har­riet Obscured by Kris­ten Smith

I will admit that after years of shoot­ing in ceme­ter­ies it does get tougher to come up with orig­i­nal com­po­si­tions.  Some­times approach­ing a grave yard in a dif­fer­ent sea­son helps, like win­ter.  Some­times it means get­ting there at a cer­tain time of day so that carv­ings are brought up strongly with shad­ows. Some­times it means find­ing unusual per­spec­tives and includ­ing other things like walls and gates in my com­po­si­tions.  Fre­quently I use dif­fer­ent post-processing tech­niques to bring out what I want in a photo.  This doesn’t always mean black and white or sepia, but I do use them since they espe­cially suit the older bur­ial grounds I haunt.

Keeping Watch by Kristen Smith

Keep­ing Watch by Kris­ten Smith

So don’t be afraid to step into that ceme­tery near your house.  Explore it respect­fully, pho­to­graph it cre­atively and walk away with a sense of history.

Kris­ten Smith is a New Eng­land pho­tog­ra­pher whose ceme­tery work can be found in her Graven Images Gallery

Photographing Cityscapes — A City Mouse in Winter By Jacqueline A. Sheen

I love to pho­to­graph the city in win­ter. The light is like no other time of year since the sun is always low in the sky. Long shad­ows crawl across the snow cre­at­ing inter­est­ing lines. The light often has a sub­tle pink­ish glow that you only see in sum­mer at day­break. There is a clean crisp­ness to the air and the land­scape. The bare trees and snow cov­ered streets cre­ate a clean min­i­mal­ism you don’t have in summer.

I was out wan­der­ing about with my newly pur­chased 8mm fish­eye lens on a crisp Sun­day after­noon. The tem­per­a­ture was hov­er­ing at minus 20 C with the bit of wind chill. It was sunny and the snow was reflect­ing the light back on every sur­face. I was in the skate park with the idea I could try out some inter­est­ing exper­i­ments with the snow cov­ered skate domes. The new C Train over­pass also runs along the edge of the park, so I thought it would work well with the lens’s dis­tor­tion as well.

Urban Trek by Jacqueline A. Sheen

Urban Trek by Jacque­line A. Sheen

The prob­lems that a cityscape pho­tog­ra­pher faces in win­ter are not much dif­fer­ent than what a land­scape pho­tog­ra­pher would expe­ri­ence. Our ter­rain is gen­er­ally a bit smoother but it is equally as cold, so I always dress about the same as you would expect to dress if you were out in the moun­tains. I am usu­ally out for a few hours at a time, so I make sure I am pre­pared for the weather.  The advan­tage I have over the rugged land­scape pho­tog­ra­pher is that I can find a Star­bucks to warm up in pretty quickly when the going gets too cold!

If you are out in sub-zero tem­per­a­tures for extended peri­ods of time, you will have to con­sider how to care for your gear.  I usu­ally carry an extra bat­tery in my pocket but so far I have not had to use it. Recently, while out on the street on a crisp day of about minus 10 C, I noticed the sun shin­ing into one of our plus 15s that is acces­si­ble from the street. I thought it might make for an inter­est­ing shot from the inside and climbed up the stairs to go inside. Well– myself, (I wear glasses) the cam­era LCD screen and the lens fil­ter all fogged up as you might expect. After a few min­utes the fog­gi­ness cleared and I was able to get the shot. I am told that hav­ing a fil­ter on the front of your lens helps keep mois­ture off the lens itself so you may want to con­sider a UV fil­ter for that rea­son. Also when I come in from shoot­ing on a cold day,  I remove the mem­ory cards  from my cam­era,  pack up the cam­era and lenses  in the bag, then I zip it up tightly. I let every­thing return to room tem­per­a­ture for sev­eral hours before remov­ing the gear  from my bag. That way I avoid the prob­lem of con­den­sa­tion on my cam­era and lenses.  Hav­ing a well padded cam­era bag is use­ful for this reason.

For this photo, which I call “Urban Trek”, I was lin­ing up the 8mm fish­eye lens to show off the cir­cle of street lights in the park. Some­one walked into my frame and I snapped the pic­ture.  The idea of the urban trekker appealed to me. Here we have an urban­ite fac­ing the harsh cold ele­ments sur­rounded by this stark bright land­scape. His dress and pos­ture fur­ther empha­size the cold tem­per­a­tures as he quickly walks to his destination.

Jacque­line A. Sheen is a pho­tog­ra­pher liv­ing in Cal­gary Alberta, Canada. You can check out more of her work at www.jasphoto.ca and she also goes by the han­dle JAS_Photo on our pho­tog­ra­phy forum.