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jjeling
03-05-2010, 01:10 AM
I was looking around on the forum at the threads. Been on here much more than usual. Hope you guys dont mind. haha. I was looking at the graveyard thread and didnt want to really take it over. As we all seem to have a certain attraction to graveyards, I was there not long ago. There was a scene I wanted to capture and HDR seemed to be the only way to capture it. The PS version on my computer does not support HDR(my newer computer is dead, that supported HDR).

I have these shots saved for the future for my efforts. It doesnt seem to be happening anytime soon so I thought I would let you try, and explain with what, and maybe any particular method.

It seems pointless, but has anyone tried converting HDR to black and white? I havent really looked into it but it seems it might lead to something interesting. Maybe that defeats purpose of HDR. Anyone on this one?
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2777/4407430689_4876643747_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4067/4408198442_754a3ce581_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2577/4407428305_b5efd6f88e_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4408195490_46a2bf6f0c_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2804/4408193950_88e66ce17f_b.jpg

Mad Aussie
03-05-2010, 02:43 AM
It seems pointless, but has anyone tried converting HDR to black and white? I havent really looked into it but it seems it might lead to something interesting. Maybe that defeats purpose of HDR.
Not pointless at all. In fact, on the right photo, it works very, very well.

I think Casil used this technique awhile back on a few of her sky/architecture shots/

casil403
03-05-2010, 10:50 AM
Not pointless at all. In fact, on the right photo, it works very, very well.

I think Casil used this technique awhile back on a few of her sky/architecture shots/

I often use HDR as BW shots...I don't think it defeats the purpose at all. I often think it adds another dimension/depth/drama to BW shots. Especially with moody scenes like graveyards and junkyards or even architecture. :)
A couple HDR BW examples:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2713/4279722201_d77d20a292.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2677/4263539089_3bd8bb92fa.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4305846615_416d7df490.jpg

Marko
03-05-2010, 11:15 AM
Thanks for those examples casil - they rock!

casil403
03-05-2010, 02:37 PM
you're welcome Marko. :)

jjeling
03-05-2010, 07:53 PM
Those are pretty cool. I have thought about that for a while now, just havent seen the thought applied. Thanks for the examples.

casil403
03-05-2010, 08:23 PM
I took a stab at it...I hope that was what you meant...if not then my apologies.
I HDR's the shots in Photomatrix and then ran it through Lightroom and a Silver Effex preset (architecture with a red filter) with High structure to bring out the detail in the trees. I adjusted the light and shadow a smidge and this is the result:

ericmark
03-13-2010, 12:53 AM
The way Photoshop seems to mess up colours black and white would have some advantages. However I always start with RAW images and with all the info the camera can provide and to work with reduced quality Jpeg it not going to give best http://www.photography.ca/Forums/members/ericmark/albums/odd-pictures/333-not-mine-combined-photoshop-cs4-jpeg-images.jpg used some curve and selective changing of exposure with Tiff image in RAW. However the software only shows a 6.5 EV range and really that does not need HDR maybe because from Jpeg?

I am only just starting myself but I have found opening up the mid range image in RAW often one can do nearly the same compacting of lights and darks without the colour distortion that Photoshop HDR seems to introduce.

Picturenaut seems better and free as far as colour goes and quicker. That was also a surprise your images were processed very quick in comparison to mine and reported to have been taken with different camera so I had to guess speeds for software to work. Maybe the meta file information is stripped out by web site?

Will watch to see comments.

jjeling
03-13-2010, 02:41 AM
Ive only messed around with HDR on a couple occasions. It is not something I really seem to have an ambition for but would like to learn how to do this a little better. These two examples are pretty much what I envisioned, except for the grey snow. Is there any way to reduce that or get rid of it or is that just a product of HDR. It seems like snow would have to turn grey in some areas due to the different exposure levels.

Also, is there an ideal step in exposures for HDR? Is it 3 steps, 5, 10? I really have no idea what the exposure was for these, but I know I started really under exposed, then took progressive photos til they were extremely over exposed. Is this the correct initial process?

Mad Aussie
03-13-2010, 02:48 AM
The stops you use for the 3 or more exposures really depends on your evaluation of the dynamic range in the scene. For instance, if the scene doesn't appear to have a huge range I use 1 stop bracketing. If I think there's a big difference then I'll take it out to 2 stops. If I still think it needs more I take a couple more using manual mode.

The grey 'patching' in the snow or the strange blue patches in sky etc are indeed HDR Merge artifact. Almost every HDR Merge photo will have some of this present in some way.
Too much blue in shadow is another artifact from the HDR Merge process.

The fix for this is in post processing the HDR Merge result. Taking the HDR Merge photo into Photoshop etc allows you to use various methods to correct this. Dodging and burning, cloning etc might do for instance. Often I will layer one of my original bracketed shots under the HDR Merge layer and blend through bits I need to look more natural or correct these issues.

Mad Aussie
03-13-2010, 02:50 AM
... but I know I started really under exposed, then took progressive photos til they were extremely over exposed. Is this the correct initial process?
Pretty much. Most people use auto bracketing but you can do it that way if you wish. You need to be fast though, for instance, if clouds are moving quickly.

ericmark
03-13-2010, 04:51 AM
Because you want as little time as possible between images so clouds etc have not moved the auto bracketing is best method. Also depth of field should stay static so aperture priority mode is best. The same applies to focus so single mode is likely better auto setting if used. In RAW I used the full 2 EV stops allowed and if only just needing HDR then 3 shots if a lot is needed then 5 shots. I may then delete those well out of range. Also should be tripod but I have found with auto bracket often you can get away without the tripod.
Write time onto the SD card can become a problem and one has to remember when taking a series as when using panorama as well to give camera time to write. I will guess not a problem with CF cards? So with my camera Jpeg is turned off.
Others may disagree of course I have only been doing it for a few weeks.