Portrait flash tips

[Yisehaq]

Hi Everyone,

These are from my practice a couple of weeks ago. I was practicing on portraits and flash photography after acquiring my 550EX.
Your C&C awaited.
cheers,

[Marko]

These look decent overall Yisehaq but as always i got a few comments.

1 - Sharpness - these aren't as sharp as they should be especially shot 1.
A quick look at your exif data says this was shot at 1/13. This is too slow even on a tripod. 1/60 Minimum is what I recommend.

2 - Shot 1 is really nice and bright and the model has a lovely expression, but the model "may" find her arm a bit big. Turning her body more at a 45 degree angle might have been even better, or a wee bit more scarf on the shoulder. Shot 2 is sharper than 1 but the expression is lacking. It's a bit tight for me and the cropping looks off as well. The lighting also is not a pleasing as in shot 1.

Hope that helps - Marko

[DonW]

I think they turned out good for what you were working with. Im assuming the f5.6 was as wide as you could go also assuming its the kit lens.
Lack of lighting here is really what made it difficult.

Don

[Yisehaq]

Thanks Marko & DonW,
You're both right in all points you mentioned.

[AntZ]

I do like the smile and lighting in shot 1.

I have the 680EX and on the weekend I was at a wedding. Not wanting to look pretentious, and because knew the official photographer(I introduced the bride and groom to the photographer) I did not use the external flash at the service and stuck with 40Ds on-board flash. At the reception once the official photographer had left I got over what everyone else thought and put on the "big" flash. The difference is remarkable. I was able to achieve reasonable shutter speeds and drop the ISO to get some awesome candids. I found you get some hilarious shots one people have had a few drinks and relax:) Anyway, my point is, it is worth the effort to understand these flashes. The other thing I notice is that many pros use diffusers to minimise the tell tale signs that a flash has been used.

[Yisehaq]

Thanks AntZ.



The other thing I notice is that many pros use diffusers to minimise the tell tale signs that a flash has been used.
Yeah I found them too harsh at times also. I almost always wish for a diffuser when I see 'the tell tale signs' but couldn't get one around here. I think any translucent sticky tape could do the job but haven't tried that. By the way, is there any case where you need the harsh flash light? Just curious.

[DonW]

Thanks AntZ.


Yeah I found them too harsh at times also. I almost always wish for a diffuser when I see 'the tell tale signs' but couldn't get one around here. I think any translucent sticky tape could do the job but haven't tried that. By the way, is there any case where you need the harsh flash light? Just curious.

There are so many different ways to use a flash gun. Bounced off the ceiling is the easiest. Experiment, I promise you will come up great results. Check out strobist.com and / or Bert Stephani on you tube for some great ideas.

Don

[Marko]

By the way, is there any case where you need the harsh flash light? Just curious.

But of course. Hard direct flash is great for an edgy feel when taken off camera. On a bride or woman though, better if they look like a model and have flawless makeup.

It's also used direct on camera when you need the light (like at an event at night)

It can also be used as Fill on a bright sunny day.

and in plenty of other cases... Hope that helps - Marko

[jlabel]

I think you missed something very important in a portrait: the background. Without a compelling background you will end up with a boring candid picture.

[Yisehaq]

Bounced off the ceiling is the easiest. Experiment, I promise you will come up great results.
Don

Do I have to positively compensate the flash power when I bounce or tilt the flash say to 45 deg? When I try this situation, the flash seems to produce weaker power even when I use E-TTL. My rule of thumb is that I try to compensate +1 when I used the flash as the main light source and -1 when I used it as fill-in when seems okay when I use it directly but when I bounce it or tilt, it does give me the same strength. Am I missing anything?

[AntZ]

My 680EX just seems to cope. I mostly leave it in auto.

[DonW]

Do I have to positively compensate the flash power when I bounce or tilt the flash say to 45 deg? When I try this situation, the flash seems to produce weaker power even when I use E-TTL. My rule of thumb is that I try to compensate +1 when I used the flash as the main light source and -1 when I used it as fill-in when seems okay when I use it directly but when I bounce it or tilt, it does give me the same strength. Am I missing anything?

Im not sure about the flash capabilities of your flash/camera setup. If your camera is in auto, av or tv mode the flash will be controlled by ettl UNLESS you set the flash to full manual. If the camera is in manual mode you set the flash manually also with either the flash or with EC.

So assuming for a minute you want to use AV and bounce off the ceiling. Set your flash to fire full power. Take a test shot then use EC to tone down the flash as needed. If you find the bounce is not strong enough then you will need a stronger flash. This doesnt mean go buy a new flash. You can use a different reflective source or get the flash off the camera.

Getting the flash off the camera is probably the best of both worlds. It doesnt matter if its by cable or by triggers. Getting the light either left or right will really help your shots, as will getting it up high. With OCF you can hold it close to the ceiling for a stronger bounce.

Hopefully some of my babble makes sense. If not look at the Bert Stephani videos on youtube and check out the Nikon site there is a few new videos showing ways to use your flash gun effectively.

Don

[Yisehaq]

Thanks DonW,
The experiment will continue. Currently, I am refering this (http://www.planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/)site by neil van niekerk which I find very resourceful. That is were I got the compensation staff. I will check the resouces you refered to,too.

[Marko]

Don has it mostly right but I found his quoted phrase confusing.

In automatic TTL ETTL modes, IF the flash is powerful enough the bounced exposure is already taken into account so the exposure should be pretty close. It may sometimes not be perfect though and that's normal. That's where the flash EC is needed.


"So assuming for a minute you want to use AV and bounce off the ceiling. Set your flash to fire full power. Take a test shot then use EC to tone down the flash as needed. If you find the bounce is not strong enough then you will need a stronger flash."This is confusing. Full power is a control used in MANUAL mode. We are not talking about that mode.
We are talking about ETTL or TTL (automatic modes).
In automatic Mode, If the bounce is not strong enough - INCREASE the exposure compensation on the flash until it is enough. IF you regularly find that that +2 or +3 in exposure compensation is not enough, THEN then flash is not strong enough. I would doubt this is the case though for most normal shooting situations using that flash.

If the area covered by the bounce is reasonable though, not much EC is normally needed. It goes without saying that it's better to bounce off lightly coloured walls (preferably white).

Hope that helps - Marko

[DonW]

Don has it mostly right but I found his quoted phrase confusing.

In automatic TTL ETTL modes, IF the flash is powerful enough the bounced exposure is already taken into account so the exposure should be pretty close. It may sometimes not be perfect though and that's normal. That's where the flash EC is needed.

This is confusing. Full power is a control used in MANUAL mode. We are not talking about that mode.
We are talking about ETTL or TTL (automatic modes).
In automatic Mode, If the bounce is not strong enough - INCREASE the exposure compensation on the flash until it is enough. IF you regularly find that that +2 or +3 in exposure compensation is not enough, THEN then flash is not strong enough. I would doubt this is the case though for most normal shooting situations using that flash.

If the area covered by the bounce is reasonable though, not much EC is normally needed. It goes without saying that it's better to bounce off lightly coloured walls (preferably white).

Hope that helps - Marko


My appologies for the confusion. I should have stated I wouldnt use ettl with bounce flash. It just easier to set the flash to full manual power and use the cameras FEC dial to tone down the flash as needed. Using ettl neither the camera meter nor the flash meter will measure the distance properly anyways.

Basicly if you use the flashes FEC buttons your turning down the flash leaving the shutter speed the same. If you use the cameras FEC dial your just raising the shutter speed which is usually desired. The only time id use the flashes FEC buttons is when the shutter speed exceeds the sync speed.

Don

Don

[Marko]

My appologies for the confusion. I should have stated I wouldnt use ettl with bounce flash. It just easier to set the flash to full manual power and use the cameras FEC dial to tone down the flash as needed. Using ettl neither the camera meter nor the flash meter will measure the distance properly anyways.

That has not been my experience Don.

I regularly bounce flash in TTL mode (on camera) and it works great. For casual portraits and quick shooting situations I would RARELY use manual, as it takes up too much time and the second you change your camera position relative to the subject, you need to adjust that manual exposure. :twocents:

[Yisehaq]

If you use the cameras FEC dial your just raising the shutter speed which is usually desired. The only time id use the flashes FEC buttons is when the shutter speed exceeds the sync speed.


I am a bit confused. I thought the shutter speed had minimal role on the exposure. :confused: and that what I found when I experimented. The shutter speed took care of the ambient light.:confused::confused: Wrong???

[Marko]

You have it right Yisehaq, that is correct.

Don is of course trying to help but I too am finding more than one of his explanations confusing (Sorry Don :o )


If you use the cameras FEC dial your just raising the shutter speed which is usually desired.

This is not correct, the flash exposure compensation button increases or decreases the flash's output.


The only time id use the flashes FEC buttons is when the shutter speed exceeds the sync speed.

Not my experience as previously mentioned....I use that button to tweak the flash's output regardless of shutter speed.

Hope that helps Yisehaq - sorry if I am misunderstanding you Don.

My ONLY goal in this thread is to make the info as clear as possible for the OP and future visitors, I never contradict just for the sake of it.

Thx! - Marko